The Ultimate Guide to Men's Selvedge Denim

What is Selvedge Denim?

Defining the Edge

Selvedge (or "self-edge") denim refers to a type of denim woven on old-school shuttle looms, producing a tightly woven band on the edges that prevents fraying. This woven edge, often marked with a colored thread (commonly red), is visible when the jeans are cuffed.

Selvedge vs Non-Selvedge

• Selvedge Denim: Made on shuttle looms, limited production, durable, unique fades

• Non-Selvedge Denim: Mass-produced on modern looms, affordable, wider fabric

Selvedge often appeals to denim enthusiasts because of its heritage, durability, and the raw, unwashed state that allows for personal fade patterns.

Why Men Choose Selvedge Denim

1. Quality Craftsmanship

Most men's selvedge denim comes from renowned mills in Japan, Italy, or the USA. The craftsmanship is visible in every stitch, rivet, and hem.

2. Long-Term Value

Although often more expensive upfront, selvedge denim lasts longer and wears uniquely over time, making it a smart investment.

3. Cultural Credibility

From Americana purists to modern streetwear aficionados, selvedge denim is worn by those who appreciate style, detail, and authenticity.

4. Personalized Fading

Raw selvedge denim fades based on how you wear it—no two pairs age the same.

Japanese Selvedge: The Pinnacle of Quality

Japan has become synonymous with premium selvedge denim. Brands like Pure Blue Japan, Iron Heart, and Momotaro Jeans are leading the movement with meticulous attention to dyeing techniques, shuttle loom weaving, and artisanal production.

Characteristics of Men's Japanese Selvedge Denim:

• Deep indigo hues from natural dyes

• Heavyweight fabric (15oz and up)

• Tighter stitching and hardware durability

• Cult-following in global denim communities

How to Choose the Best Men's Selvedge Denim

1. Know Your Fit

Selvedge denim typically comes in several silhouettes:

• Slim Fit: Tapered leg, clean profile

• Straight Fit: Classic cut, roomier leg

• Relaxed/Baggy Fit: More space, popular in modern streetwear

2. Understand the Weight

Fabric weight affects comfort and break-in:

• 12–13 oz: Everyday comfort

• 14–16 oz: Durable and structured

• 17+ oz: For hardcore denim heads

3. Pay Attention to Rise

• Low Rise: Below the hips

• Mid Rise: Around the navel

• High Rise: Above the waist, more vintage aesthetic

4. Consider the Fade Potential

If you're looking for high-contrast fades, opt for raw or unwashed denim and wear them consistently without frequent washing.

Styling Men's Selvedge Denim

Casual Look

Pair with:

• White T-shirt

• Lightweight jacket (like a chore coat)

• Canvas sneakers or boots

Smart Casual Look

Pair with:

• Oxford shirt or knitwear

• Blazer

• Loafers or leather boots

Streetwear-Inspired Look

Pair with:

• Oversized hoodie or bomber jacket

• High-top sneakers

• Accessories like a beanie or side bag

Care Tips: Making Your Selvedge Last

Washing

• Wash after 6 months of wear (if raw)

• Use cold water, inside-out

• Avoid machine drying

Storage

• Hang to retain shape

• Avoid folding with pressure on creases

Repairs

• Consider visible mending or sashiko techniques

• Use reinforcing patches on high-friction areas

Notable Brands for Men's Selvedge Denim

Entry-Level ($)

• Uniqlo Selvedge

• Gustin

• Brave Star

Mid-Tier ($$)

• Naked & Famous

• 3sixteen

• A.P.C.

Premium ($$$)

• Iron Heart

• Samurai Jeans

• Momotaro

Common FAQs About Selvedge Denim

Is selvedge denim worth it?

Yes—especially for those who value durability, heritage, and personal expression.

How long does it take to break in raw selvedge jeans?

Anywhere from 2 to 6 months, depending on frequency and intensity of wear.

Can I wash my selvedge jeans?

Yes, but it’s best to delay the first wash to build natural fade patterns.

Conclusion: More Than Just a Pair of Jeans

Men's selvedge denim is more than a fashion trend—it's a journey. From the moment you pull them on to the day they retire, each pair tells your story through creases, fades, and character. Whether you’re a purist or just getting started, selvedge denim offers a connection to history, craft, and personal style that few garments can match.