What Is Selvedge Denim? The Essential Guide

What Is Selvedge Denim?

Selvedge Denim Meaning

The term "selvedge" comes from "self-edge," referring to the natural edge of the denim fabric that prevents unraveling. Selvedge denim is typically woven on old-school shuttle looms, which produce narrower fabric with tightly bound edges. These edges are often marked by a colored thread—most famously, red—and visible when you cuff the jeans.

Key Characteristics

• Clean, finished edges (no fraying)

• Heavier and denser than regular denim

• Typically raw (unwashed)

• Unique fading patterns over time

Origins

Selvedge denim originated in the early 1900s and was used widely until the 1950s when faster, mass-production looms took over. Japanese manufacturers revived the tradition in the 1980s, making it a staple in high-end streetwear and denim enthusiast communities.

How Is Selvedge Denim Made?

Shuttle Looms vs. Projectile Looms

Shuttle looms weave the fabric in a continuous weft, creating a clean edge. Projectile looms, on the other hand, cut the fabric and leave frayed ends. Shuttle looms are slower and more expensive to operate, but they produce higher-quality denim.

Craftsmanship Over Speed

Selvedge denim production prioritizes durability, structure, and texture. The slow weaving process allows for imperfections that contribute to its unique, character-driven appeal.

Small-Batch Production

Most selvedge denim is produced in limited quantities. This makes every pair of jeans slightly different, particularly when left raw and broken in naturally.

Why Selvedge Denim Matters

Durability

The dense weave and quality cotton make selvedge denim long-lasting—often improving with age.

Personalization

Unlike pre-distressed denim, selvedge jeans fade and conform to your body and lifestyle, telling a story with every crease.

Sustainability

Selvedge denim is often produced using traditional techniques with less environmental impact. Many brands use organic cotton, reduce water usage, and prioritize ethical labor.

Raw vs. Washed Selvedge Denim

Raw (Dry) Selvedge

• Unwashed and stiff

• Ideal for creating custom fades

• Takes time to break in

Washed Selvedge

• Pre-washed to soften the fabric

• Easier to wear immediately

• May lose some "personality" potential

Pro Tip: If you want a truly personalized pair, go raw. Wear daily and wash only after a few months to let your natural fades show.

Best Selvedge Denim Brands in 2025

1. Naked & Famous

Affordable, experimental, and Canadian-made with Japanese fabrics.

2. Iron Heart

Heavyweight Japanese selvedge with extreme durability and biker appeal.

3. Oldblue Co.

Indonesia’s leading selvedge denim label offering rugged, heritage-inspired pieces.

4. Unbranded Brand

Minimal branding, maximum value. Great for those on a budget.

5. A.P.C.

French label known for clean design and high-quality raw denim.

Best Affordable Selvedge Denim Picks

Looking for the best budget selvedge denim? Here are a few options under $150:

• Unbranded UB101

• Gustin Regular Raw

• Everlane Selvedge Slim Fit

• Oldblue Co. Slim Straight 16oz

Each offers excellent build quality, classic style, and slow-fade potential.

How to Style Selvedge Denim

Casual Looks

• Cuffed selvedge + white tee + sneakers = timeless

• Oversized hoodie + slim selvedge for contrast

Elevated Fits

• Dark indigo selvedge + button-up shirt + boots

• Raw black selvedge + turtleneck for minimal chic

Selvedge Denim Care Tips

• Wait 3-6 months before first wash (if raw)

• Hand wash or cold soak inside out

• Hang dry only

• Avoid machine wash/dryers to preserve color and shape

Final Thoughts

So, what is selvedge denim? It’s more than just jeans. It’s a commitment to better craftsmanship, durability, and personal expression. Whether you’re seeking the best selvedge denim money can buy or exploring the best affordable selvedge denim for your first pair, this fabric remains timeless, stylish, and undeniably cool.